Trailside & Roadside Repairs

When something breaks 30 km from home, you don’t need a perfect fix — you need to ride or limp back safely. These are field workarounds; redo the proper repair when you get home.

What to carry on every ride #

Minimum:

• Multitool (hex 2.5–8, T25, screwdriver, chain breaker)
• Tire levers (2)
• Spare tube (even on tubeless setups — for catastrophic cuts where sealant fails)
• Tubeless plug kit (if running tubeless)
• Mini pump or CO2 + cartridge(s)
• Spare quick link (correct speed for your chain)
• Phone with this guide cached offline

For longer rides / remote terrain, add:

• Spare derailleur hanger (specific to your frame — keep the original packaging)
• Zip ties (always useful)
• Duct tape (wrap a meter around your pump or tire lever)
• Small chain lube (10 mL bottle)
• Cash + ID

D.1 Flat tire (tubed) #

1. Stop somewhere safe (off the trail/road, sheltered if it’s raining).
2. Remove the wheel (5.1 — but you’re doing this in the dirt).
3. Find what caused the flat first. Run a finger around the inside of the tire to find thorns, glass, wires. If you don’t remove the cause, the new tube will flat instantly.
4. Inspect the tube to find the leak — pump it up, listen, feel.
5. Patch or swap. If patching, use glueless for speed (less reliable but enough to get home). If swapping, save the old tube to patch later at home.
6. Insert tube partially inflated. Easier to seat without pinching.
7. Tire bead onto rim with thumbs only if possible — levers can pinch the tube.
8. Pump to about 80% of normal pressure. You’re getting home, not racing.

D.2 Flat tire (tubeless) #

Plug it (small to medium puncture, sealant not closing it): #

1. Locate the leak by spinning the wheel or listening.
2. Position the puncture at the bottom so sealant pools there.
3. Insert plug through the hole using your plug tool. Push in until about 1 cm sticks out.
4. Trim flush if you have scissors; otherwise leave the tail and ride.
5. Re-inflate with pump or CO2.
6. Spin the wheel to help sealant work into the plug.

When plug fails (large cut or sidewall tear): #

1. Convert to tubed. Remove valve from rim (valve core remover or pliers), remove tire, install tube, refit tire, inflate.
2. For really big cuts, line the inside of the tire with a “boot” first — folded €10 note, energy gel wrapper, piece of tire sidewall, anything tough. The boot prevents the tube from pressing through the cut.

D.3 Broken chain #

1. Find the broken link. It’s usually one or two links pulled apart.
2. Remove damaged links with the chain breaker on your multitool. You may need to remove 2–4 links to get back to undamaged plates on both ends.
3. Reconnect using a spare quick link (this is why you carry one). Or, if you must use the chain breaker to push a pin: push it through, leaving 1 mm proud, then break that link’s outer plates open and reattach.
4. Shorter chain = limited gears. You can no longer use the largest cog combinations. Stay in middle gears, no big-big or small-small combinations, and pedal home.

D.4 Snapped derailleur hanger / bent derailleur #

If the derailleur hits the spokes or hangs at a wild angle:

1. Stop riding immediately. A floppy derailleur can wedge into the spokes and rip out, taking the hanger and possibly damaging the frame.
2. Assess: is the hanger bent or broken? Is the derailleur cage bent?
3. If hanger is broken / derailleur unusable: convert to singlespeed.
   • Remove the rear derailleur entirely (if you can — it’s just one bolt).
   • Break the chain (chain breaker).
   • Find a chain length that runs straight from a middle chainring to a middle cog (around middle of cassette).
   • Use the quick link to rejoin the chain at this shorter length.
   • You now have one gear. Pedal home.
4. If you carry a spare hanger (which I strongly recommend on remote rides): replace, re-bolt derailleur, set limits roughly by eye, ride home in middle gears.

D.5 Bent derailleur cage (still attached) #

If the derailleur cage hits a rock and bends inward:

1. Stop pedaling immediately if you hear it grinding spokes.
2. Bend the cage gently back by hand. You’re trying to clear the spokes, not restore perfect alignment.
3. Avoid the gears closest to the wheel (largest cogs). Stay in middle gears home.
4. At home: full inspection of hanger, derailleur, and spokes. Possibly replace derailleur.

D.6 Broken spoke #

1. Stop and inspect. A loose spoke flopping around can wrap into other spokes and cause a major failure.
2. Wrap the broken spoke around a neighbor to keep it out of the way (use the spoke itself or a zip tie).
3. Open your brake (if rim brake) — the wheel will be out-of-true and rubbing the pads.
4. Loosen brake caliper (if disc brake and caliper is rubbing the now-wobbly rotor).
5. Ride gently home. The wheel will be wobbly. Stay seated, avoid hard cornering and impacts.
6. Replace the spoke and re-true at home or at a shop.

D.7 Brake pad worn through mid-ride #

If a pad wears past the wear line and starts gouging the rotor:

1. Stop using that brake immediately. Use the other one only.
2. For short distance home (downhill): very gentle braking with the remaining brake; consider walking the steepest descents.
3. At home: replace pad AND inspect the rotor. If gouged, replace the rotor.

D.8 Hydraulic brake leak #

If you see fluid weeping from the lever, hose, or caliper:

1. Check brake feel. Spongy lever = air entering = will eventually fail. Any leak should be considered failing.
2. Walk the bike if the leak is significant or progressing.
3. For mild seeping at the banjo/olive: snug the connection slightly with a hex key (not full torque — just enough to stop the seep).
4. Get home using mostly the other brake.

D.9 Lost bolts #

Categorized by criticality:

D.10 Headset come loose mid-ride #

If the steering develops play (clunk over bumps):

1. Stop and check. Apply front brake, rock the bike forward and back. If you feel knocking, headset is loose.
2. Tighten the top cap (1–2 Nm equivalent — snug, not cranked).
3. Re-snug stem clamp bolts (5–6 Nm equivalent).
4. Test rock again. If still loose, bigger problem (worn bearings, frame issue) — ride gently home.

D.11 Tire blown off rim (tubeless) #

A “burp” or full unseating:

1. Don’t panic. Most blowouts on tubeless aren’t catastrophic at moderate speed.
2. Check the bead. If just unseated but tire still on, can sometimes re-seat trailside with a high-volume pump or CO2 and lots of cursing.
3. If unsealable in the field: install tube (D.2 above).

D.12 Pedal won’t unclip #

(Yes, this is a common ride-ending injury source.)

If the cleat-pedal mechanism seizes (worn cleat, cold weather, broken spring):

1. Pull foot UPWARD with force if you have time (often releases when float maxes out).
2. Roll to a low-speed area (parking lot, grass) before stopping.
3. As a last resort, fall sideways onto soft ground. Pedal will unclip with body weight.
4. At home: new cleats, lubricate the spring mechanism, or replace the pedal.

D.13 Universal field principles #

• You’re getting home, not finishing the ride. Compromise everything for “good enough to walk-or-ride back.”
• Lower your speed. A field repair that’s good for 20 km/h may not be safe at 50.
• Let companions know. If you’re riding with others, communicate the limitation.
• Plan exit routes. Towns, roads, train stations — having a backup mid-ride saves you from worse situations.
• Always have a way to call for help. Phone, charged. Cycling roadside-assistance services exist (in NL: ANWB Fietshulp).