Used Bike Pre-Purchase Checklist

Buying a used bike (Marktplaats, Tweedehands, etc.) can save 40–70% versus new — but only if you can spot deal-breakers before paying. This is the inspection workflow to run on any bike before you hand over money.

General condition #

• Frame visual inspection. Look for cracks, especially around welds, head tube, BB shell, dropouts, chainstay/seatstay junctions. On carbon: tap with a coin and listen for any dull thud (suggests delamination). Look closely at any paint scuffs — sometimes hides a crack.
• Frame alignment. Stand behind the bike. Front wheel and rear wheel should be in line. Misalignment can mean a serious crash history.
• Rust on steel frames. Surface rust is fixable; deep rust at joints is structural concern.
• Service records / receipts. Owners who keep records tend to maintain better.

Wheels & tires #

• Spin each wheel. Any wobble, hop, or rub? Note severity.
• Hub bearings. Hold the rim and rock side-to-side. Any play = needs service.
• Spoke check. Any visibly broken or loose? Squeeze pairs of spokes — they should feel similar in tension.
• Rim wear (rim brake bikes). Worn-through rims have a concave wear area or visible “wear indicator” line gone.
• Tire condition. Cracking sidewalls, worn tread, or tubeless that won’t seat = factor cost into offer.
• Rotor condition (disc bikes). Significant scoring or thickness below stamped minimum = replacement.

Drivetrain #

• Chain wear. Bring a chain checker. >0.75% = chain + cassette likely needs replacement (€100–250 for the parts you’ll need).
• Cassette teeth. Look for “shark fin” pointed teeth — worn.
• Chainring teeth. Same — sharp pointed teeth = worn.
• Shifting test. Shift through every gear. Skipping or hesitation under power = needs adjustment minimum, possibly worn parts.

Brakes #

• Pad thickness. Disc: pads should have at least 1.5 mm of pad material. Rim: well above wear lines.
• Lever feel. Hydraulic: should feel firm with very short pull. Spongy = needs bleed.
• Rotor condition (disc). True, no significant gouges, above minimum thickness.
• Brake function. Walk the bike, squeeze each lever. Both wheels lock independently.

Suspension (if applicable) #

• Stanchion condition. Polished, no visible scratches or coating damage.
• Sag feel. Push down with body weight. Should compress smoothly and rebound steadily.
• Service history. Lower leg service every year is standard. No service in 2+ years = factor €100+ service into offer.
• Air pressure / sag at sag check. Test with shock pump if you have one.

Cockpit & contact points #

• Stem and bar bolts all tight (without wrenching them yourself in front of the seller).
• Saddle clamp secure, saddle level.
• Bar tape / grips condition — replacement is €15–40 if needed.
• Cleats if pedals included — float should still feel positive.

Frame size & fit #

• Right size for you. A great deal in the wrong size is no deal. Stand-over clearance, reach, saddle height range. Online geometry charts help.

What to walk away from #

• Cracks in carbon, anywhere.
• Hidden crash damage clues: bent dropouts, scuffs from frame contacts (e.g., crank arm rubbed seat stay), replaced parts that look much newer than the rest.
• Frame numbers / serial scratched out (could be stolen — police can verify).
• Seller pressuring you to skip inspection.
• Strong ammonia/urine smell (sometimes used to obscure water damage on stored-outdoor bikes).

Negotiation aids #

• Price assumes “ready to ride.” Anything you find adds to your offer reduction:
  • Chain + cassette replacement: -€100 to -€200
  • Brake pad replacement: -€30 to -€60
  • Bleed required: -€40 (DIY) or -€80 (shop)
  • Tubeless setup: -€50
  • Suspension service due: -€80 to -€200
  • Bar tape / grips: -€20

After buying #

Always:

1. Full bolt torque check (Appendix C).
2. New chain if old one is borderline.
3. Bar tape replacement (hygiene).
4. Pedal removal, regrease, reinstall.