5.10 wheels

Cup-and-Cone Hub Service (Older Shimano)

Cup-and-Cone Hub Service (Older Shimano). Step-by-step procedure for bike maintenance — tools, time, and what to watch out for.

Difficulty ★★★ advanced
Time ~45 min per hub
Applies to Bikes with cup-and-cone hubs (older Shimano; many Commuter and entry-level)

Tools

  • Two cone wrenches (typically 13mm and 15mm or 15mm and 17mm)
  • grease
  • ball bearings (if replacing)
  • rags

Procedure

  1. Remove the wheel and the QR/axle.

  2. Place two cone wrenches

    on opposite sides — one on the cone (thin nut closest to the bearing), one on the locknut (outermost nut).

  3. Loosen the locknut

    by holding the cone stationary and turning the locknut counter-clockwise.

  4. Unthread the locknut, washer, and cone

    off the axle on one side.

  5. Slide the axle out

    from the other side — bearings will fall out (catch them on a rag).

  6. Clean everything

    — bearings, cones, races inside the hub — with degreaser. Inspect: - Bearings should be smooth and round; pitted or discolored = replace. - Cones should be smooth at the contact track; pitted = replace. - Hub races (inside the hub shell) should be smooth; pitted = replace the hub.

  7. Pack fresh grease

    into both hub races. A generous bead of grease holds bearings in place during reassembly.

  8. Press bearings into the grease

    — count them on each side (typically 9–11 per side; same number both sides).

  9. Insert the axle

    carefully so the cone on the still-installed side seats against the bearings.

  10. Thread the cone, washer, locknut

    on the open side.

  11. Tighten the cone

    finger-snug — should hold but the axle still spins freely.

  12. Tighten the locknut

    against the cone using two cone wrenches (cone holds, locknut tightens). The "lock" effect engages here.

  13. Test:

    the axle should spin smoothly with no play. Hold the axle ends and try to wiggle laterally — should feel solid. If it has play, loosen the locknut, snug the cone tighter by an eighth-turn, re-lock. If it's notchy/tight, loosen the cone slightly.

  14. Reinstall the wheel.

    ---

Procedure #

  1. Remove the wheel and the QR/axle.
  2. Place two cone wrenches on opposite sides — one on the cone (thin nut closest to the bearing), one on the locknut (outermost nut).
  3. Loosen the locknut by holding the cone stationary and turning the locknut counter-clockwise.
  4. Unthread the locknut, washer, and cone off the axle on one side.
  5. Slide the axle out from the other side — bearings will fall out (catch them on a rag).
  6. Clean everything — bearings, cones, races inside the hub — with degreaser. Inspect:
    • Bearings should be smooth and round; pitted or discolored = replace.
    • Cones should be smooth at the contact track; pitted = replace.
    • Hub races (inside the hub shell) should be smooth; pitted = replace the hub.
  7. Pack fresh grease into both hub races. A generous bead of grease holds bearings in place during reassembly.
  8. Press bearings into the grease — count them on each side (typically 9–11 per side; same number both sides).
  9. Insert the axle carefully so the cone on the still-installed side seats against the bearings.
  10. Thread the cone, washer, locknut on the open side.
  11. Tighten the cone finger-snug — should hold but the axle still spins freely.
  12. Tighten the locknut against the cone using two cone wrenches (cone holds, locknut tightens). The “lock” effect engages here.
  13. Test: the axle should spin smoothly with no play. Hold the axle ends and try to wiggle laterally — should feel solid. If it has play, loosen the locknut, snug the cone tighter by an eighth-turn, re-lock. If it’s notchy/tight, loosen the cone slightly.
  14. Reinstall the wheel.