Procedure

Remove the wheel and brake pads

from the caliper you're bleeding (so the pistons aren't pushed too far apart and to keep oil off the pads).

Insert the bleed block

into the caliper (a plastic spacer that holds the pistons in their bored position).

Rotate the brake lever

so it sits horizontal — the bleed port on top of the lever should be flat (loosen the lever clamp if needed and rotate, then snug back).

Remove the bleed port screw

on top of the lever using a small hex (typically 2.5mm).

Thread the funnel

into the bleed port. It includes a small stopper plug — leave the stopper in until you're ready to add oil.

Fill the funnel

with fresh Shimano mineral oil to about half full.

Open the caliper bleed nipple

with a 7mm wrench (only loosen 1/8 turn). Attach a clear vinyl tube to the nipple, with the other end in a catch container to capture old oil.

Pull the brake lever slowly to the bar and hold

— old oil and air bubbles flow out through the caliper nipple.

Close the caliper nipple

*before* releasing the lever (otherwise air sucks back in).

Release the lever.

Top up the funnel

as the oil level drops.

Repeat steps 8–11

until the fluid running out at the caliper is clear and bubble-free, and lever feel is firm.

Tap the caliper and hose

with the handle of a screwdriver while pulling the lever — knocks loose bubbles trapped in the hose.

For final bleed:

with no bubbles coming through, gently squeeze the lever many times rapidly to push any remaining tiny bubbles up to the funnel.

Insert the funnel stopper plug.

Unscrew the funnel

carefully — quickly cap the bleed port with the bleed screw and tighten.

Wipe everything down

with a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol.

Reinstall pads and wheel.

Test lever feel

— should be firm with a defined bite point. If spongy, repeat bleed.

Bed in the brakes

even though the pads are old — the pad/rotor contact may have changed. > Shimano mineral oil is non-corrosive but can damage paint over time. Wipe spills promptly. ---

Procedure #

Remove the wheel and brake pads from the caliper you’re bleeding (so the pistons aren’t pushed too far apart and to keep oil off the pads).
Insert the bleed block into the caliper (a plastic spacer that holds the pistons in their bored position).
Rotate the brake lever so it sits horizontal — the bleed port on top of the lever should be flat (loosen the lever clamp if needed and rotate, then snug back).
Remove the bleed port screw on top of the lever using a small hex (typically 2.5mm).
Thread the funnel into the bleed port. It includes a small stopper plug — leave the stopper in until you’re ready to add oil.
Fill the funnel with fresh Shimano mineral oil to about half full.
Open the caliper bleed nipple with a 7mm wrench (only loosen 1/8 turn). Attach a clear vinyl tube to the nipple, with the other end in a catch container to capture old oil.
Pull the brake lever slowly to the bar and hold — old oil and air bubbles flow out through the caliper nipple.
Close the caliper nipple before releasing the lever (otherwise air sucks back in).
Release the lever.
Top up the funnel as the oil level drops.
Repeat steps 8–11 until the fluid running out at the caliper is clear and bubble-free, and lever feel is firm.
Tap the caliper and hose with the handle of a screwdriver while pulling the lever — knocks loose bubbles trapped in the hose.
For final bleed: with no bubbles coming through, gently squeeze the lever many times rapidly to push any remaining tiny bubbles up to the funnel.
Insert the funnel stopper plug.
Unscrew the funnel carefully — quickly cap the bleed port with the bleed screw and tighten.
Wipe everything down with a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
Reinstall pads and wheel.
Test lever feel — should be firm with a defined bite point. If spongy, repeat bleed.
Bed in the brakes even though the pads are old — the pad/rotor contact may have changed.

Shimano mineral oil is non-corrosive but can damage paint over time. Wipe spills promptly.

Hydraulic Brake Bleed — Shimano (Mineral Oil)

Tools